Nick on the Go

Of Jamaica’s 14 parishes Hanover is the 2nd smallest. It might be considered one of the most rural or underdeveloped places in Jamaica. It’s often a running joke that it “doesn’t exist”. Nowadays, Hanover isn’t really known for much but it is the home of many things; Many rivers, many bays and many many many rolling hills. It is the birthplace of the first Prime Minister of Jamaica. Because of its geography as the northwestern most parish, Hanover only has 2 neighbours; St James to the east and Westmoreland to the south. A good portion of its population travels to both its neighbors daily for work and school. Hanover is deeply rural, and until recently agriculture was the top industry. The rise of the tourism industry here has given employment to many Hanoverians, but “development” outside of resorts is very sparse.

The most important towns here are all on the coast; Hopewell, Sandy Bay, Lucea, Green Island and Orange Bay. The coastline is dented by bays and harbours both large and small. Lucea, the capital, is set in an almost perfect horseshoe shaped harbour. Other bays along its coast are; Great River Bay, Sandy Bay, Mosquito Cove, Green Island Harbour, Orange Bay and Bloody Bay. Most of these bays are rimmed with beaches and cliffs of varying sizes and coastal ecosystems like; mangrove forests, river estuaries, seagrass beds and fringing coral reefs. Most of Hanover’s northern coastline is jagged, grey rock formations because these are former coral reefs.

Hanover’s history is both in your face and out of sight. The narrow coastal plains were at one point some of the most productive plantations in all of Jamaica. With plantations came great houses, sugar mills and wind vanes. Many of these structures can be seen alongside the North Coast Highway in varying stages of disrepair. The most well known colonial structure here is the Tryall Greathouse, it was restored and is now a part of a luxury hotel. Former plantation fields are now golf courses for extremely wealthy foreigners and locals alike. There are other ruins along the highway between Hopewell and Lucea. One hidden gem in Hanover are the ruins at Kenilworth. I came across the ruins earlier this year and was taken aback by its sheer size and design. In the colonial era it was one of the largest industrial grade sugar processing centers in Jamaica. Manned by enslaved people, it produced tonnes of sugar for export. The road leading to the ruins is still a very long and winding dirt road.

Hanover is not a popular road trip destination like say Portland, St Ann or St Elizabeth, but it rivals them in my book. The highway between Montego Bay and Negril is very scenic and has many opportunities to stop and take pictures, eat, do activities, then get back on the road. Rafting is done at Great River on the border with St James. There are popular jerk and seafood places at Tryall Beach and Mosquito Cove. The roadway is winding in some areas and this produces spectacular views at Great River Bay, Mosquito Cove, and Lucea. Lucea can be easily explored on foot. The town is small but bustling and the older buildings tell their own history. But the streets are small and crowded during the week. Visiting the historic Fort Charlotte, just outside of the town, is free. It is very relaxing to around the fort and take in the amazing views of the harbour and watch the waves crash against the limestone cliffs. On the Hanover side of the Negril strip is a waterpark and an overkill of all inclusive resorts on Long Bay and Bloody Bay. I have memories when I was younger of leaving Mobay and going over the river to Hanover. Back then the only places I knew were Round Hill, Tryall, Lucea and Sunset at the Palms. Round Hill is a dominant bluff in Hopewell that can be seen from as far as Montego Bay and Point, Hanover.

I spend most of my time now in this parish since I work there. I am becoming more aware of the unique subculture of its residents, the issues that plague the parish and its lack of social development. One thing I am still amazed by every time I cross the bridge into Hanover is how strikingly beautiful the scenery is. The people who live here are generally very industrious and generous. To those who have never been here I would say  come and see it for yourself “go with an open mind”.  To those who have been here before I say come rediscover a place that really does exist…